Pitti Uomo 106 Takeaways
Words & photography: Lee Osborne @sartorialee
We may have our HFW tinted spectacles on while navigating the Fortezza but we’re not oblivious to emerging trends. Lee Osborne lists his takeaways from a show that sets the tone for the remainder of the menswear season
When Pitti gives you lemons, embrace them sartorially
Lemons not only served as the theme of Pitti Uomo 106 but the citrus fruit hues seemed to filter through to its stylish guests too. Every conceivable shade was spotted, whether it was full on muted yellow pinstriped suits, US Marine tees, egg yolk shorts with black linen guayaberas, a rayon sash on a beige panama, a silk bra worn beneath an oversized suit, a bandana sat beneath the Cuban collar of a beige seersucker shirt or even a yellow parasol providing shade from the Florentine sun.

Monochrome minimalism
Monochromatic ensembles were well represented with a plethora of black linen jackets worn over black knitted tees with cream trouser and black loafer combos. Black on black, cream on cream and navy on navy were the popular pairings and how stylish they were in their simplicity.
While Florence wasn’t the cauldron of heat it sometimes is, there was a trend for guests dispensing with jackets in favour of shirt and more often than not, high-waisted western belted trouser combos - and it proved a stylish move.

Formal shorts worn with tailoring were a thing this Pitti. One wonders why they’ve taken so long to catch on in the heat of Florence but there were several well executed examples, particularly of the ‘old money’ Madras check variety.
Bandanas eclipsed ties
While ties were still thin on the ground it was the bandana that continued its sartorial rise and filled the void of a blank neck. Usually worn with open-necked knitted polos which were a real thing this time and occasionally draped on round-necked t-shirts.

New balls please
The tennis trend showed no sign of abating following on from the success of brands like Casablanca and Reebok. Neapolitan tailoring powerhouse Kiton even launched a new tennis diffusion line KNT – admitting they were keen to capitalise on the fact that current world number one Jannik Sinner is Italian. Fellow compatriot brand Macron, usually associated with football and rugby kits had us shape shifting at their al fresco Macron Clubhouse where they debuted their high-end collection of padel-inspired apparel to a hip set of assembled funsters. Fellow compatriot Superga, whose timeless canvas lace-ups continue to transcend the generations, used the 106th edition of the show to celebrate its iconic 2750 pump. It transformed the world of footwear when it was first introduced way back 1925 as the first of its kind to feature a vulcanised natural rubber sole, gaining cult status with Italian tennis players like Adriano Panatta who won the French Open in the 70s.